If you have read the previous articles in this series you should now have a clear idea of what brochures you are trying to obtain for your collection.

Now for the fun bit! Starting, maintaining and increasing your collection.

As you are collecting second-hand items, the condition of an item you are after can vary dramatically. Also, it does not help that sellers regularly either omit or misdescribe items.

Therefore, it is paramount that you ask the right questions and look for what the seller hasnt said as much as what he has in his advert description.

Having been disappointed on more than a few occasions when a pristine item has arrived through my letterbox, I have a checklist that I consult before committing to buying. The list is as follows:

1)What is the size of the item in centimetres? Pictures can be deceptive and what looks like a 21cm x 29cm item, may be much smaller in size.
2)How many pages long is it? Beware that on smaller brochures, there can be confusion between seller and buyer with what represents a page. My firm only uses the term pages for items that are 6 pages long or more. Otherwise, we use the term number of sides. As a reputable seller, this avoids any confusion and disappointment.
3)What is the reference number of the brochure? Most manufacturers have a code system for their brochures that you will become familiar with very quickly. By keeping a note of the references, you will avoid duplicates in your collection.
4)What is the condition of the brochure? Amazingly, very few sellers have a condition scale attached to the advert (we do). One persons pristine may be fit only for the bin in other collectors eyes! I therefore ignore vague words like the above and ask direct questions Has it any creases or tears and if so how many and how bad? Any fading? Any foxing (A term used to describe stains, specks, spots and blotches in paper)? Any water or damp damage?
5)How will the item be delivered to you? On auction sites especially, it is natural to go for the cheapest posting method. However, if the item is being sent for the cost of the stamp, can you really expect anything more than for it to be delivered in a flimsy envelope? Probably not. The only way that a collectable paper item should be sent is in a card-backed envelope preferably marked do not bend with the item wrapped in plastic to prevent water damage and a return address inside, just in case the postal system loses it. I also insist on a proof of posting, again just in case the item goes missing. For any item over a preset limit, in my case 30/$60, I offer to pay extra for recorded delivery. Better safe than sorry.

If you get a satisfactory answer to the questions above, you will be as certain as you can be that you will get the item and that it will be of a standard reflecting the price you have paid. The list sounds a bit daunting, but essentially it boils down to ensuring you know what you are getting and making sure it arrives in the same condition with which it left the seller.

Many is the time that I have received a sodden envelope that contains a perfectly preserved item because I have insisted on it being wrapped in plastic. If the seller says, he does not normally do this, offer to pay extra for the service or if practical, collect the item. If your seller cannot or will not take this care, may I suggest that you walk away and wait for another to turn up.

Please remember that for older brochures especially, a bit of fading and foxing and the odd crease or small tear is perfectly acceptable. In fact, I prefer an item with a patina to an as new item as it seems to have more character.

Finally, unless it is extremely rare, I would avoid buying any incomplete, falling apart or badly damaged brochures. On the whole, they have little or no value and it is best to wait for a better one to be offered for sale.

Next week, I will be discussing the correct way to store your collection.

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Acquiring used car parts is the same as looking around for a second hand car. You can either look for it in the classified ads, go around the neighborhood checking out the various shops that do sell these parts or you can surf the net saving some time and effort and search for the parts that are needed.

There was time that such parts could only be found in dealerships and in the shops of local mechanics. This made it a challenge for those who needed it badly especially since there was no guarantee that the part if found, would fit the requirements and the seller would usually jack up the price giving the buyer no choice but to pay what was demanded.

Searching for cheap used car parts does not have to be that difficult anymore as long as you remember a few things before looking for it;

By knowing exactly what is needed depending on the make and model of the car you have, it will make it easier for the person to go around looking for the exact car part

After having the specific part in mind, you can then check how much you are willing to spend to acquire that item.

Some parts that are needed dont have to be the original. There are some parts that can be bought at surplus or a compatible part from another car make and model enabling can be used making a person save money for other things.

After getting the proper information, you can start by checking out either the local shops or dealers. If these people dont have it, perhaps another dealer can be recommended to assist in the procurement. Another place you can go to are the local junkyards since a lot of parts there can be reused. Asking the local auto club for help and browsing through the Internet are also other options a person has to help in the search for other hard to find parts which can be ordered and delivered in a few days time.

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